The miniskirt was followed up in the late 1960s by the even shorter micro skirt, which has been referred to derogatorily as a belt or pelmet. Upper garments, such as rugby shirts, were sometimes adapted as mini dresses . Tights or panty-hose became highly fashionable, in place of stockings, specifically because the rise in hemlines meant that stocking tops would be visible. Mary Quant cited this development in defense of the miniskirt: “In European countries where they ban mini-skirts in the streets and say they’re an invitation to rape, they don’t understand about stocking tights underneath”.
Owing to Quant’s position in the heart of fashionable “Swinging London”, the miniskirt was able to spread beyond a simple street fashion into a major international trend. Its acceptance was greatly boosted by Jean Shrimp ton’s wearing a short white shift dress, made by Colin Rolfe, on 30th October 1965 at Derby Day, the first day of the annual Melbourne Cup Carnival in Australia, where it caused a sensation. According to Shrimp ton, who claimed that the brevity of the skirt was due mainly to Rolfe’s having insufficient material, the ensuing controversy was as much as anything to do with her having dispensed with a hat and gloves, seen as the essential accessories in such conservative society.
During the mid-1970s, the fashion industry largely returned to longer skirts such as the midi and the maxi. Journalist Christopher Booker gave two reasons for this reaction: firstly, that “there was almost nowhere else to go…the mini-skirts could go no higher”; and secondly, in his view, “dressed up in mini-skirts and shiny PVC maces, given such impersonal names as ‘dolly birds’, girls had been transformed into throwaway plastic objects”. Certainly, this lengthening of hemlines coincided with the growth of the feminist movement. However, in the 1960s the mini had been regarded as a symbol of liberation, and it was worn by some, such as Germaine Greer and, in the following decade, Gloria Steinem, who became known for their promotion of women’s issues.
Around the turn of the 21st century, hipster trousers became highly fashionable for women. The micro has been reworked as an even less substantial belt-skirt, which is more an evocation of the idea of a skirt than something that covers anything substantial. It may perhaps also provide rhythm for the hipline. Due to its revealing nature, the belt-skirt is rarely worn in public. Miniskirts are also seen worn over trousers or jeans, or with leggings that provide coverage of each leg from above the knee. Although “float” skirts were most closely associated with the boo look of the mid-naughtiest, short skirts also featured in some outfits and in London, for example, minis were more widespread during the hot summer of 2006 than for several years, a trend that continued through the mild autumn and winter and into the following summer. Miniskirts are now becoming more common for younger generations.
Mary Quant ran a popular clothes shop in the Kings Road, Chelsea, London called Bazaar, from which she sold her own designs. In the late 1950s she began experimenting with shorter skirts, which resulted in the miniskirt in 1965-one of the defining fashions of the decade.
Development
The miniskirt was further popularized by André Courses, who developed it separately and incorporated it into his Mod look, for spring/summer 1965. His miniskirts were less body-hugging and worn with the white “Courage’s boots” that became a trademark. By introducing the miniskirt into the haute couture of the fashion industry, Courses gave it a greater degree of respectability than might otherwise have been expected of a street fashion.
